St. Winefride’s Well – Holywell, Wales
In all the world, there are numerous sites purported to be the source of miraculous goings-on, with often a centuries’ old following to support that claim. The United Kingdom is a place steeped in lore and legend – in both arguable fiction (the Arthurian tales) and documented real world holy figures who made their mark. As with anything, even in myth, there are bound to be grains of truth, which makes such tales all the more fascinating. St. Winefride of Wales is one such figure. Her well in Holywell, Flintshire is considered to be the oldest continuously operating pilgrimage site in the United Kingdom.
What’s so special about this site? In 660AD, a young woman, the eponymous Winefride spurned the advances of a local prince or chieftain’s son. In a rage, he struck off her head, and, as the story goes, a well sprang up from the ground where her head came to rest. What makes the tale even more alluring is that later, her uncle, St. Beuno, brought her back to life. Returning to myth and its link to reality, the Arthurian tale, Sir Gawain and the Green Knight mentions the site (one of the very few locations it does so) by name. Since then, the well has been favored by the faithful of Ireland, England and Wales – both royal and common alike.
While pilgrims doubtless ventured to the well for some time prior to the 12th century, it was in 1138, when a shrine was built in nearby Shrewsbury, that St. Winefride’s site gained true prominence in the minds of the faithful. Notables such as Richard I, Henry V and James II are said to have ventured to the well for its healing and holy powers. Richard – for his fortune in the First Crusade, Henry walked here a-foot from Shrewsbury to show his piety, and James came to seek a child. Not long after his visit, his wife became pregnant. Of more recent events, in the late 16th century, a chapel and crypt were built around the well to protect it. The structures still stand today, offering breathtaking and beautiful views of this holy venue. As for the well itself, pilgrims come to bathe, drink, and find solace and comfort in the clear, chilly green waters, which never get above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, no matter the time of year.
Traditionally maintained by the Jesuits, the site remains popular to this day. The Welsh town of Holywell, that takes its name from St. Winefride’s site, is a small yet thriving community roughly nine miles from the border with England (and the aforementioned Shrewsbury). As is common in such towns, the bustling market town caters not only to the residents of Holywell itself, but also to those in the outlying areas, as it has done since its inception. Geographically, Holywell isn’t a solitary village, but a series of several villages linked by bus service. Together, they form the Holywell catchment. Within Holywell itself, visitors can linger in the Town Centre where life seems to stand still, hearkening back to a simpler time. Numerous historical buildings can be seen here, and during certain times of the month, Holywell comes to life with buskers and a lively, friendly street market. Modern amenities are on hand as well, including a spa, a sauna, many restaurants and a pub. For the actively minded among you, a sports and leisure center adjoins the spa, where you can play squash, badminton, racket ball and other sports as well.
In the end, the specifics of one’s belief don’t matter within the scope of the well’s greater purpose. Whatever one believes, however one goes through life, and even if true miracles never occur, St. Winefride’s site engenders hope in the faithful. Hope for themselves and hope for the future. More than faith in a thing or a person long dead, hope, like Winefride’s spring, is eternal. That Holywell provides a scenic and memorable base from which to experience one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in all of the UK is just the icing on the cake.
August 24 2010 08:33 am | Uncategorized